Can You Use Emulsion On Wood?
Wall paint on timber looks great on day one but knots and knocks show it up unless you prep and choose the spot carefully.
Written by Edward Bailey
Updated
The short answer
Yes, you can use emulsion on wood, but only on indoor timber that doesn't get much wear, such as panelling, shelving backs or decorative furniture. Emulsion is softer than satinwood or gloss, marks easily and won't stop knots bleeding through. Seal knots with knotting solution, prime the bare wood, then apply two coats, and add a clear varnish on top for extra protection.
Emulsion is cheap, quick to apply and comes in every colour going, so it's tempting to carry on past the walls and onto the woodwork. We've had to use emulsion on wood ourselves, and it marks easily on anything that gets handled every day. This guide covers where emulsion works on wood and where it lets you down.
Where Emulsion Struggles On Timber
The biggest issue is toughness. Emulsion is formulated for walls and ceilings, so it dries softer than the oil-based and trim paints made for woodwork. On doors, frames and skirting that get knocked, kicked and handled, a wall paint scuffs and marks far sooner than satinwood or gloss would.
Knots and resin are the other problem. Emulsion does nothing to hold back the sap in knots or old stains in the grain, so they bleed through as yellow or brown patches that stand out against the new colour. The fix is a knotting solution to seal knots on bare timber, followed by a stain block primer for marks and tannin to keep them hidden.
Wooden Surfaces Where Emulsion Works
Indoor timber that isn't handled much is fine for emulsion. Wall panelling, alcove shelving, picture rails, the backs of bookcases and decorative furniture all take it well once the wood is prepared, and you get an exact match with the wall colour if you use the same tin.
Outdoor timber is a different story, as emulsion isn't made to deal with rain and frost. Sheds, fences and window frames need a paint from our pick of the best exterior wood paints instead.
Indoors, it's worth paying a bit more for a durable emulsion paint rather than a budget matt, with a wood primer underneath. The primer seals the grain and gives the emulsion a sound surface to hold on to.
Why People Choose Emulsion For Woodwork
The appeal is mostly the look. A matt emulsion gives wood a flat, chalky, modern finish without the shine of gloss, and it makes colour matching easy when panelling or shelving sits right against a painted wall.
If the flat look is what you're after, there are options made for wood that give a similar effect with more durability. Satinwood has a low sheen and stands up to wear far better, and our pick of the best satinwood paints for interior wood is a good place to start. Chalk paint is another route for furniture, giving the same flat look with a wax or lacquer on top.
Tips For Painting Wood With Emulsion
These tips come from the times we've had to put emulsion on wood:
- Sand before you paint. A light sand smooths rough spots and takes the shine off any old finish so the primer can grip.
- Clean off dirt and grease. Use a degreaser or white spirit on surfaces that get handled, then let the wood dry.
- Seal knots and prime. Treat knots with knotting solution and apply a wood primer to all bare timber.
- Match the tool to the area. A quality paint brush handles edges and mouldings, while a small paint roller for flat panels covers large surfaces faster and more evenly.
- Build up two coats. Let the first dry completely before adding the second, which evens the colour and adds a bit more toughness.
- Finish with a clear varnish. A water-based varnish over the emulsion seals it and makes it easier to wipe clean.
Our Advice For Doors And Skirting
We'd steer clear of emulsion on any wood that takes a beating. Doors, frames, skirting boards and stair spindles get scuffed every day, and an emulsion finish there means constant touching up.
Satinwood or gloss is the better choice for those jobs. Our guide on how to paint skirting boards runs through the prep and technique for a hard-wearing finish.
Your Questions Answered
Do you need to prime wood before using emulsion?
Yes, bare wood needs priming before emulsion. A wood primer seals the grain so the emulsion doesn't soak in unevenly, and it gives the paint a better surface to bond to. Treat any knots with knotting solution first, and use a stain block primer if the timber has marks or resin that would show through the new colour.
Can you use emulsion on wooden furniture?
You can use emulsion on wooden furniture that isn't handled much, such as a decorative side table, shelf unit or picture frame. Sand and prime the piece first, apply two coats and finish with a clear water-based varnish so it can be wiped down. For a chair, desk or dining table that gets daily use, a furniture or chalk paint lasts better.
Can you use emulsion on skirting boards?
You can use emulsion on skirting boards, but it won't last well. Skirting is kicked by feet, hoovers and furniture, and a soft wall paint marks and chips quickly there. Satinwood, eggshell or gloss gives a much harder finish that wipes clean. Keep emulsion for the walls and choose a dedicated woodwork paint for the skirting.
Will emulsion stick to varnished wood?
Emulsion won't stick well to varnished wood without preparation, because the shiny surface gives it nothing to grip. Clean off any grease, sand the varnish until it's dull all over and wipe away the dust. A coat of primer for glossy surfaces then gives the emulsion a sound base, so it doesn't peel when it's knocked.
Should I varnish over emulsion on wood?
A clear water-based varnish over the emulsion seals it and makes it easier to wipe clean, so it's worth adding on anything that gets handled. It doesn't turn emulsion into a trim paint, though. For doors, frames and skirting that get knocked every day, satinwood or gloss is the better choice from the start.
Can I use emulsion on a shed or fence?
No, emulsion isn't made to deal with rain and frost, so it fails quickly on outdoor timber. Sheds, fences and window frames need a paint made for exterior wood instead. Keep emulsion for indoor timber that doesn't get much wear, like wall panelling, alcove shelving, picture rails and the backs of bookcases.
How do I stop knots bleeding through emulsion?
Seal them before the emulsion goes anywhere near them, as wall paint does nothing to hold back the sap. Dab knotting solution onto each knot, go over any marks or tannin stains with a stain block primer and prime the rest of the bare wood. Skip that and the knots show through as yellow or brown patches.
What gives a flat look on wood without using emulsion?
Satinwood has a low sheen and stands up to wear far better than emulsion, so it's the better route if you like a soft, modern finish. Chalk paint is another option for furniture, giving the same flat look with a wax or lacquer on top. Both are made for wood, which emulsion isn't.
Eddie spent five years as a self-employed painter and decorator before going part time to become one of the main writers at DIY Works. From garden fences to mist coats on fresh plaster, painting and decorating is his speciality.